Difference between revisions of "Pallets"

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(Created page with "(draft!) Why pallets? Which pallets Disassembly? How to do so , vs types / qualities of woods. The main hazard from re-use of wood is damage to tools from nails, s...")
 
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===Why pallets?===
  
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Freely available supply of wood - what's not to like? Usually people will be happy for you to remove their excess pallets, but occasionally they will want to keep them for later collection.
  
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===Which pallets===
  
Why pallets?
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Not all pallets are created equal. Good pallets are clean, reasonably sound wood, and most importantly not strangely coloured - or stamped 'MB'. That means they've been soaked in pesticide and are dangerous to work with, or even burn. Ideally you want nice long unsplintered planks, with clean, rust-free nails.
  
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Very occasionally you will see hardwood pallets - which are usually darker, but very different from merely old or discoloured pine. If the wood seems unusually heavy, and solid to the touch, eg when pressing a fingernail or key into the endgrain, you may have an exceptional find. The Makerspace's personal best so far was a Malaysian pallet, made from either Teak or Mahogany.
  
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===Breaking down pallets===
  
Which pallets
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The first thing to ask is if you need to. Sometimes projects can be built using chunks of assembled pallets and save lots of time and effort with a few judicious cuts and reassembly!
  
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Hammer and crowbars are usually a good choice, or placing a lump of wood under the slats to brace them against the ground, and thumping the strut with a lump hammer, which effectively pulls the nails out.
  
Disassembly?
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The ultimate method is a forked pry bar which pries the slats clean off, unfortunately the one Adam built has perished in service and another has yet to be created.
  
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If the pallet is extra splintery sometimes it's not possible to save all of it, in which case it can be worth simply sawing the end struts off, and then attacking the middle with wide crowbars and leverage.
  
How to do so , vs types / qualities of woods.
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===Precautions===
  
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Check nails that you've extracted, in case they broke off - pallet nails are very prone to this! Either extract the rest or keep that wood well away from anything that can't handle metal! In practice this means only the Mitre saw, assuming it has the correct blade in.  When we have a metal detector wand, it ''must'' be used on all ex-pallet wood before use on anything else.  Some of our hardware is very expensive and breakage due to something easily avoidable is not at all desirable! Do also bear in mind that even nail-safe machines may throw out nail fragments at great speeds, which is also undesirable.
  
The main hazard from re-use of wood is damage to tools from nails, screws etc. embedded in the wood. Even a small panel pin can ruin a plane iron or wood chisel.
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Nails and screws will also ruin chisels and planes, not just the machines. Look carefully at any holes in your recovered timber, especially around joints or where hinges etc. were attached to ensure that there are no nails or broken screws below the surface. Old floor joists are particularly prone to this sort of contamination and floorboard nails are very substantial obstacles to saw blades.
 
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It is also possible but less likely for such items to be thrown out by power tools and so be a hazard.
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Old wood often has a lot of splinters and these can be a hazard to ungloved hands. Pallets are particularly prone to this. Pallets are also prone to having very hard knots and other defects in their planks.
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Look carefully at any holes in your recovered timber, especially around joints or where hinges etc. were attached to ensure that there are no nails or broken screws below the surface. Old floor joists are particularly prone to this sort of contamination and floorboard nails are very substantial obstacles to saw blades. Pallets are usually held together by barbed nails that often break off when extraction is attempted.
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Other hazards are dust from MDF, chipboard and lead based paint (when sanded off) which can be harmful if ingested.
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Watch out with wood from pallets. Pallets used for international shipment have to be treated to reduce the risk of shipping insects between countries. Most nowadays are heat treated and are fine to use, but there are still a fair few about that have been fumigated or soaked in really nasty insecticides. Turning this into sawdust is really quite unhealthy. Look for an "HT" mark (Heat Treat) and GET RID of any pallets marked "MB" (Methyl Bromide).
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Revision as of 23:47, 16 March 2018

Why pallets?

Freely available supply of wood - what's not to like? Usually people will be happy for you to remove their excess pallets, but occasionally they will want to keep them for later collection.

Which pallets

Not all pallets are created equal. Good pallets are clean, reasonably sound wood, and most importantly not strangely coloured - or stamped 'MB'. That means they've been soaked in pesticide and are dangerous to work with, or even burn. Ideally you want nice long unsplintered planks, with clean, rust-free nails.

Very occasionally you will see hardwood pallets - which are usually darker, but very different from merely old or discoloured pine. If the wood seems unusually heavy, and solid to the touch, eg when pressing a fingernail or key into the endgrain, you may have an exceptional find. The Makerspace's personal best so far was a Malaysian pallet, made from either Teak or Mahogany.

Breaking down pallets

The first thing to ask is if you need to. Sometimes projects can be built using chunks of assembled pallets and save lots of time and effort with a few judicious cuts and reassembly!

Hammer and crowbars are usually a good choice, or placing a lump of wood under the slats to brace them against the ground, and thumping the strut with a lump hammer, which effectively pulls the nails out.

The ultimate method is a forked pry bar which pries the slats clean off, unfortunately the one Adam built has perished in service and another has yet to be created.

If the pallet is extra splintery sometimes it's not possible to save all of it, in which case it can be worth simply sawing the end struts off, and then attacking the middle with wide crowbars and leverage.

Precautions

Check nails that you've extracted, in case they broke off - pallet nails are very prone to this! Either extract the rest or keep that wood well away from anything that can't handle metal! In practice this means only the Mitre saw, assuming it has the correct blade in. When we have a metal detector wand, it must be used on all ex-pallet wood before use on anything else. Some of our hardware is very expensive and breakage due to something easily avoidable is not at all desirable! Do also bear in mind that even nail-safe machines may throw out nail fragments at great speeds, which is also undesirable.

Nails and screws will also ruin chisels and planes, not just the machines. Look carefully at any holes in your recovered timber, especially around joints or where hinges etc. were attached to ensure that there are no nails or broken screws below the surface. Old floor joists are particularly prone to this sort of contamination and floorboard nails are very substantial obstacles to saw blades.